How do I re-seal my bath or re-seal my shower?

Written by Marcus Smith

Seal Repair Step-by-Step

We all know that it happens from time to time, the silicone seal on your bath or shower becomes mouldy and perished. So its time to replace or repair the silicone seal around the bath or shower, but how? What is the easiest way?

The FUGI Tool Kit is a brand new tool specifically designed for the job.

To purchase a FUGI Tool Kit from us at the web only exclusive price of £12.99 Click HERE.

Follow the steps below:

	STEP ONE of Bath Seal Repair Remove old caulking with the saw blade. Whatever is left on the tiles or other smooth surface can be removed using the scraping blade.
	STEP TWO of Bath Seal Repair Apply the caulking mass. Since there is no need for a releasing agent, just work step-by-step, by only doing short distances.
	STEP THREE of Bath Seal Repair Choose caulking line shape. Make sure both edges touch both surfaces. Slightly press FUGI and pull.
	STEP THREE MORE of Bath Seal Repair If necessary, use FUGI 2 with guiding aid to assist you in crossing grout joints.
	...Done! No masking tape No cleaning afterwards No releasing Agent

 

I've chipped my bath/basin/shower tray, what can I do?

Written by Marcus Smith

Its not a very nice thing to have to worry about. Chipping your bath, or your basin or shower tray can and does happen up and down the country every day, if you have done this, then you are not alone. But what can you do about it? There are 3 things you can do, and they are as follows.

1) Purchase a repair kit from us by clicking HERE. - A quick fix that lasts for years. These repair kits have been a closely kept secret in the trade for a long time. Easy to use, and the fix is virtually indistinguishable from new.

2) Replace your damaged item with new - Always the best option, however, this will incur the cost of purchasing the new item, and also fitting it. Of course this could be a major job, especially if the colour is no longer available (meaning replacing the entire suite).

3) Do nothing! - This will leave the item looking unsightly, and it will also result in further damage that will still need fixing or replacing.

My basin has black/silver marks on it, what's wrong?

Written by Storekeeper

Have you discovered you have a black or silvery mark on your new sanitary ware - no problem. This is caused by the reaction of a ring or other piece of metal such as a plug's chain. It is not permanent, so don't panic.  You can easily remove the marks with a bit of elbow grease and a bath rubber. As this is a problem that has existed for years, manufacturers developed bath rubbers to be used to 'rub' away the marks like using a rubber. Lightly moistening the area of the scratch and using the rubber will take care of the problem. Purchase a Cramer Bath Rubber by clicking HERE!

How do I stop this Limescale?

Written by Storekeeper

If you are having problems with keeping limescale off your shower cubicle glass, or bath screen, you could try our showerguard product.  Using the power of Nano-Technology, ShowerGuard gives a one easy application permanent protection!  It can be used to protect glass, glazed ceramic tiles, porcelain and mirrors.  It also makes cleaning easier, helps to resist damaging chemical attack from harmful soaps and lime scale, and retains and preserves long term transparency of the glass.  Click on the image to purchase ShowerGuard.

Alternatively, for a permanent fix, the answer is a water softener. Day to day cleaning can be done with warm soapy water but the only real way of keeping everything free of limescale is to install a water softener. However, be careful not to confuse a water softener with a water conditioner. The conditioner doesn't remove the minerals it mearly disperses them.

"My wife and I have had a water softener for the past 20 years and we wouldn't be without it!" says Danny.

They are initially costly to install but the ongoing cost of bags of salt is only minimal and the benefit in terms of lifespan of appliances like the washing machine, dishwasher, boiler and kettle far outweighs the cost - not to mention the savings on cleaning products and more importantly cleaning time!

What can I use to clean my bathroom tap fittings with?

Written by Marcus Smith

Tap fittings are usually plated with chrome. Any harsh or abrasive substances can ruin these surfaces. Don't worry, we have just the thing:

You can use these cloths to clean any hard surface in your bathroom, including stainless steel, chrome, glass, marble, ceramic, granite, wood and plastic. And whats more, you only use water on the cloth, no need for household chemicals. They are so good in fact that they are used by Antony Worrall Thompson (the award winning TV celebrity chef) amongst others. Click HERE to buy this product from our store!

How do I clean my whirlpool bath?

Written by Marcus Smith

Cleaning a whirlpool bath is like cleaning any other bath with one exception.  It has pipework that can't be reached.  So how do you clean it.

The answer is to use a specially formulated Whirlpool Cleaning liquid.  This is in addition to the usual cleaning that you would do.  Every 4 - 6 weeks or so, you should fill your whirlpool with warm water and add the manufacturers required amount of whirlpool cleaner to it.  Then switch on the whirlpool bath (ensure the air controller is off) for a period of 10 - 15 minutes.  The liquid runs through the system, and breaks down any detrius that may have accumulated...and there may be quite alot...you will be surprised.  Once this is done, drain the bath, refill it and switch on the stystem again for a further 5 minutes (no cleaner required this time) this will rinse the bath thoroughly.  Once drained you can then use the bath as normal. We use Eddy Whirlpool Cleaner.

 

How do I protect my porous stone?

Written by Marcus Smith
Porous stone is prone to soiling and liquid dirt penetration if left untreated.  We use a product called HG Marble Impregnator which is used to seal our porous stone displays in the showroom (especially prone to dirt due to its very nature).  HG marble impregnator is ideal for sealing marble, travertine, slate, limestone, flamed and honed granite and also other natural stone.  It also makes a great base for finishing sealers, polishes and waxes.  Its also suitable for both interior and exterior usage.

My grout lines are black & mouldy, what can I do?

Written by Storekeeper

Are you having trouble with mould or nasty looking grout lines? Install a good quality extractor fan and you should find a vast improvement. However there are also options other than tiles. Why not remove grout lines all together and use tile replacement waterproof wall boarding. On a new stud wall you needn't even use plasterboard as the wall boarding can go straight up on the stud work. No more plastering!

However, if you cannot do this, the next best thing would be to remove the old grout, and re-apply with a newer mould resistant grout. Alternatively, you could purchase the Cramer Bath Rubber - Multi Purpose residue remover by clicking HERE! For instant results!

What's the difference between Acrylic and Steel Baths?

Written by Storekeeper

Should I buy a steel or an acrylic bath? Steel baths, in general are more rigid with a harder finish and they tend to gleam a little brighter than acrylic baths however, once they scratch or chip it is difficult to repair them and they never quite look 100%. Acrylic is however, much warmer and it is easier to polish out any scratches or dints that might occur. If rigidity bothers you there are also coatings available that make acrylic as rigid as steel but these do cost a bit more.

Have you chipped your Steel or Cast Iron Bath? Click HERE for a repair kit.

What about poor water pressure?

Written by Storekeeper

If you have poor mains water pressure to your house you may have been told that there is not a lot you can do about it however this is not true. We have systems available that in many cases can boost your systems pressure by using a specialist pump and a small tank. This enables you to increase your combination boilers’ output up to 3 bar pressure and to boost your pressurized cylinders’ output up to 4 bar pressure (depending in both cases of course on the manufacturers’ maximum pressure). There are also specialist pumps available that will keep your system at a constant pressure adjusting automatically to compensate for multiple people using different water hungry devices throughout the house. Please contact us for any further information.  Below is a small lowdown on water pressure terminology.

Low pressure = 0.1 to 0.5 bar

Medium pressure = 0.5 to 1.5 bar

High pressure = 1.5 to 10 bar

Gravity/Tank Fed systems will typically consist of a cold water tank (usually in the loft), and a hot water tank (usually in the airing cupboard).  To measure your systems water pressure, measure the distance from the bottom of your cold water tank, to the water outlet you are wanting to replace, and mulitply this by 0.1.  So, if your header tank is 6ft, approx 2m then 2 x 0.1 = 0.2 bar.

Combi Boiler systems instantly heats cold water when a hot tap is turned on.  This means there is no stored hot water.  These generally have a dial on them showing a bar pressure reading, from 0 - 3 bar usually.  Most are set between 1 and 2 bar, and will give a good shower or bath, although thermostatically controlled showers are recommended for use with this type of system.

Pressurised Systems have a cylinder that is heated by an electric element, boiler, or combi boiler.  Cold water mains pressure is used to push the hot out of the cylinder at mains pressure, this means that all taps connected to it are running at mains pressure, and therefore high pressure.  This means all showers and taps would be by their nature, power showers or power taps.  This system also gives the benefit of quiet running, and stored hot water.

Pumped systems use a pump (usually installed next to the hot water cylinder) to pump the water from the tanks to the desired location.  Although slightly noisy, this still means that any shower or tap that is pumped, is a power shower/tap.

 

What about a plumber?

Written by Storekeeper
When selecting a plumber always ask for references and follow them up. Just by calling three of the plumber's past clients you can build a picture of their skills and customer service attitude. If you follow the recommendations of your local bathroom store you should still investigate the plumber's past customers just to make doubly sure.

What should I do about my bathroom lighting?

Written by Storekeeper

Bathroom lighting is an area where an electrician or fully qualified plumber should be consulted before making any type of purchase, its not something you want to get wrong! There are many regulations governing what can and can't be fitted in the bathroom and for your own safety you should adhere to them.

Bathrooms are given 'Zones' when it comes to lighting, have a look at the image below which gives you the zonal areas within your bathroom.

 Zone 0 = All areas in White - Require IP68 rated fully submersible lights. Suitable for saunas, steam rooms, shower areas, ir mounted underwater.

Zone 1 = All areas in Burgundy - Require IP65 Jetproof rated lights i.e. anywhere that may be subjected to a jet of water.

Zone 2 = All areas in Olive - Require IP44 Splashproof rated lights. Anywere within 0.6 mtrs of a basin or other water source.

Zone 3 = All areas in Blue - Standard rated bathroom lights.

In general low voltage lights are used to protect from electrocution but they also need to be carefully selected to cope with the humidity of the bathroom. If you are happy that you know what kinds of lights you require, then check out our own Bathroom Lighting Online Store Selection by clicking HERE.

What about shower trays?

Written by Storekeeper
Shower trays these days are available in many shapes and styles and made of many differing materials. Whichever you decide to use don't forget to ask your plumber if he is happy to make the bedding for the tray or to put the tray straight on the floor. If the answer is no, don't despair, there are trays with legs and plinths available for your DIY use or to make the plumbers life easy. Also available are trays with tiling up-stands these allow for a completely waterproof seal to be made with the tiles.

How do I calculate the best size of heated towel warmer to use in my bathroom?

Written by Marcus Smith

We often get asked how to calculate the best size of heated towel warmer to use in a bathroom.  This is because there are so many different sizes, shapes and finishes available that it becomes confusing.

Heated towel rails will mostly come with a wattage rating, or a BTU rating (British Thermal Unit), sometimes both.

To calculate the wattage rating required visit the Heat Calculator by clicking HERE!

A simple method for working out your BTU requirements is to take the height of your room, multiply it by the width, then muliply it by the depth and then multiply it by 5.  For instance your room is 6ft x 8ft x 8.5ft so 6x8x8.5x5=2040.  Your room requires a heated towel warmer that gives out a minimum of 2040 BTU or more.  You must do this sum in feet and inches (yes I know we are in metric now but sometimes the old ways are the best).  Simple!

How to choose the best hot tub or spa?

Written by Storekeeper

Hot Tubs and Outdoor Spas are becoming increasingly popular in the UK but with so many on the market making similar claims how do I choose the best one?  Firstly you must understand what benefits you derive from a Hot tub. There are three types of therapy that you get from Outdoor Spas.
Firstly, there is immersion – this is basically the benefit of weighing 10% of your normal body weight as you do in any body of water. This reduction in weight on your muscles and joints, whilst in hot water, allows blood to flow around the joints, muscles and tissues more effectively. As part of this process healing oxygen from the air carried by the blood is also more effectively delivered.
Secondly, there is the Hydro thermal therapy this is the effect of sitting in hot water and is particularly acute when the outside air temperature is low. Basically, the blood looks to get rid of the heat your body is receiving from the hot water in the tub you are sitting in. The Hot water causes an increase in heart rate and blood flow around the body as the body looks to let heat out through the head. Your intake of Oxygen from the outside air (where it is most prevelant  - in comparison to inside) increases dramatically. This has all sorts of benefits as oxygen is an amazing healing agent. All this activity is generally good for you* as has been established by thousands of years of humans bathing in hot springs and thermal baths. * unless you have medical condition that your Doctor recommends no hot water bathing for.
Nearly all Hot tubs can provide the first two benefits and in these areas but the main points of difference are about how cost effectively various tubs can heat the water, keep it warm and keep the water pure.
So to this end insulation and design are very important as the more heat you lose from the tub the more money it will cost to run.  It follows that there should be virtually no heat loss, aside from out of the top of the tub when you are using it. Most heat loss apart from this is lost from the water carrying pipe work which travels outside the wet part of the spa. Many manufacturers have foam insulation but the best have 90% of the pipe work in the hot water inside the main Spa shell which means any heat loss from the pipes is conducted straight back into the hot water.
Filtration is also important for general health and most US, Australian and West European manufacturers have realized the importance of preventing the spread of water borne disease.  Look for tubs with both large and small particle filters in combination with ozone water treatment and also check that the total volume of the tub is filtered many times a day (up to 150 times a day in the best tubs).  Also UV ozone treatment systems lose effectiveness over time (grow weaker) so make sure you look out for ‘Electrode’ Corona Discharge Ozone systems as these produce Ozone with a ‘microchip’ or an ‘electrode’ maintaining the same sanitizing power throughout its life.
The third and final benefit of Spas is Hydrotherapy which is derived from the stimulation of the various jets avaiable as they massage, stimulate circulation and speed up the dissapation of lactic acid built up in the muscles. There are many technical issues with this benefit but the basic premise is that for true physiological benefit you want a tub that pumps high volumes of water at relatively low pressure with a perfect mix of air and water. Some manufactures claim extremely high pressure pumps but these can actually be damaging to your tissue and muscles. 
Also the jets in a Spa need to be adjustable in height so as to hit the correct area of the body intended – this is extremely difficult for manufacturers as we all have different shaped and sized bodies.  As far as we know only those Spas that can take different jets from one seat and place them in another, different height, seat are able to offer this benefit which rules out 99% of the tubs on the market. In addition, the best tubs have as little pipe work as possible – the science is that the further the air and water have to travel through pipes the more resistance they face and therefore the harder the pump (or pumps) has to work – increasing electricity use and decreasing pump effectiveness.
There are many manufacturers making tubs but the only one that ticks all the boxes in the areas highlighted are Villeroy and Boch tubs – check out http://www.villeroy-boch.com/wellnessathome/en/spa_1.html or for more detailed information visit our sister company website http://www.theartofbathrooms.co.uk/imagine-your-own-spa...at-home./

What about installing taps?

Written by Storekeeper
When installing taps remember hot is always on the left. This is also very important when connecting up a shower. Thermostatically controlled bath fillers are available and very useful when young children and elderly people are concerned. These allow a constant temperature to be achieved throughout the filling of the bath and therefore eradicate the possibility of scalding.

What about installing bath fillers?

Written by Storekeeper
When installing a bath shower mixer, never connect the cold off the rising mains and the hot off the tank feed low pressure. For safety reasons, if the main were to be shut down you could have very hot water showering over you and of course you will never have a good control in the shower because of the very different pressures between the hot and the cold water. The cold effectively forces out the hot water.

What's this about tapholes?

Written by Storekeeper
A large number of baths nowadays come without tap holes, due to the many options we have such as separate taps, mono taps, three/four/five tap-hole taps and of course wall mounted taps. If you are drilling the bath for a pair of taps, set them at 180cm centres then if you or anyone else in the future wish to install a bath shower mixer the centres will be correct for any 2 hole application (by far the most common and with the greatest number of style options).

What else should I be checking for?

Written by Storekeeper
If you are doing a job yourself check what tools you will need before starting. Many people, including some bathroom installers do not realise the problems that they may have without the right tools. Tap spanners are a prime example making the changing or installing of taps so much easier.

When should I check what I've bought?

Written by Storekeeper
Don't leave the checking of your goods until your plumber arrives to install your bathroom. If there happens to be a problem, it may not be possible to have it put right immediately. Ideally arrange delivery or collection in time for the installer to check before commencement of the installation. Simply open all the packages and check for any obvious visible damage like scratches, cracks or marks.

What do I need to check before thinking about an electric shower?

Written by Storekeeper

When fitting or replacing an electric shower never take the wiring for granted. Many times you will need to fit a new cable right back to the consumer unit with a new fuse - always consult an electrician or a fully qualified plumber if you are in doubt.

The other things to consider are whether you are in a hard water area, what kind of water system you have, and what do you use your shower for.

Hard water leads to terrible limescale, and this is a common killer of electric showers.  A titanium lined electric shower will last many years longer than a standard electric shower.

If you are on a combi boiler, or gravity system, an electric shower can be a pain...especially if someone in the house turns on a tap.  This can have the effect of scalding or freezing you.  This is because as the water pressure drops because it is being drawn elsewhere, and the remaining water is then heating very quickly.  Consider buying a thermostatic electric shower.  If you have a combi boiler, consider upgrading completely and away from electric showers.

Also, if you are the kind of person who just wants to jump in the shower and have a quick wash, electric showers are great.  But there are those out there that like to take an age in the shower, and making full use of it, for instance all the functions of a multifunction shower.  Electric showers do not give you this ability, so another reason to consider upgrading away from electric showers, perhaps to a fabulous pumped shower with body jets. 

My shower leaks, what could be the cause?

Written by Storekeeper

The one thing that can happen after fitting a shower cubicle is that it can leak.  A number of factors can cause this. In a good number of cases, silicon has been put everywhere to avoid a leak, inside, outside etc.  Most manufacturers actually advise that silicone should be used only on the outside of the cubicle.  The reason for this is that any water that is caught within the framework of the cubicle can find its way back into the tray as the manufacturer intends.  To much silicon can stop this happening.

Another common problem is the shower tray not being installed correctly.  Unfortunately, in the past it has been practice to butt a tray directly to tiles, and silicon around the edges.  However, due to the movement of the house, and the movement of the tray when getting in and out of the shower, this can cause the silicon to come away.

The best method to install a shower tray in our opinion, is to bury the edges of the shower tray into the wall itself.  I.e. Chase out a channel 1cm deep within your brick/stone work, or back to the battening if a stud wall.  Silicone the sides of the tray that will be put into the wall.  Then push the tray into the chasing and allow to set.  The plasterboard or other cladding such as marine ply or wetwall should be brought down onto the top of the tray.  Silicon seal again.  Now tiles can be applied if required.

This gives 2 good effective seals against leakage, and also stops the tray moving because it is built into the wall. 

Why should I wall mount?

Written by Storekeeper

Wall hung toilets and basins are becoming increasingly popular but still we find people are worried that their wall hung toilet will not take their weight.  What is important when ordering any wall hung ceramics is ensuring they are fitted with the right ‘in-wall’ frames and accessories.  There are a large number of different manufacturers that produce in wall products Abacus, Geberit and Grohe to name but a few.  These are metal frames (sometimes with cisterns incorporated in the structure) that fix securely to the floor and wall transferring the weight of the ceramic toilet or basin down to the floor and making the fitting process much easier for the fitter.  They will hold very heavy loads (I often stand on the one on display to prove this point - being a solid fellow) and as long as they are fitted properly any fears of them breaking are unfounded.  If you want a cheaper alternative to a specialist frame you can use 4” x 3” timbers with reverse mounted bolts protruding through them however you will need to cover the bolts with something to stop them chipping the ceramic and you will need to use large rubber washers when tightening the nuts to hold the pan in place.  The advantages of wall hung is that there are no nasty silicon lines to collect grime and it is easier to clean around the base of this notoriously dirty area.  There is also the obvious aesthetic benefit and the wow factor that wall hung products create.

How do I remove ceramic tiles from my bathroom walls or floor?

Written by Marcus Smith

What ever you do, this must be handled carefully.

Depending on your type of walls you can do one of two things.

a) Old ceramic tiles once cleaned and freed from grease etc make an excellent base to tile onto.  The reason for this is that the surface is already quite smooth and straight so your newly tiled room (tile on tile) will be even smoother.  Of course this will reduce the width of the room by the thickness of the new tile, but it will look better than the original.  Take this under advisement from a fully qualified tiler.

b)  For plaster walls, chip the tile off and then repair the damage that is inevitably caused with new plaster.  For Drywall, it will be faster and easier to pull the tile-covered areas of drywall away from the studwork, then put up new drywall.  Do make sure that the new drywall is made from a water-resistant greenboard or marine grade ply.

There are of course other products that can be used in place of tiles, wetwall panelling.  This is a ready made patterned boarding that comes in many different colours or patterns (marble finish, or mosaic effect for instance).  These of course dispense with tiles, are easy to install, and completely waterproof when installed correctly.

For floors, use a broad chisel or brick cutter, and using a hammer, chip away the old tiles.  Gloves and eye protection as well as knee protection should always be used.

How can I get rid of mildew from my bathroom walls or ceiling?

Written by Marcus Smith

Mildew is nearly always caused by poor ventilation in the bathroom.  Because bathrooms naturally create a lot of moisture, it will cling to the walls and ceilings unless it can be vented away.  Apart from being unsightly, its not particularly healthy.

We would always recommend putting a bathroom vent in place.  These days, bathroom extractor fans are inexpensive, and having one installed could well be a lot cheaper than having to repair damp walls and ceilings, who knows? it could even have caused damage to the structure of the building left long enough.

If a vent or extractor are completely out of the question, then you must wipe down every wall, and the ceiling after every bath or shower and make sure you keep the window open for a time afterwards.

A variety of sprays can be used to kill any mildew that has collected, and once done it might be advised to repaint your bathroom with an anti-mildew paint.